Today’s costume can be said as the collection of designs in past 500 years which means there are almost no innovation in contemporary designing. Even for the haute couture designer, the dresses they produce now are more like the patchwork of old fashion elements. To take the design of Elie Zaab in 2017 as an example. Two signs for this series are manual embroidery and high waist design. But these two designs have already be widely used in history. High waist design became popular in 15th century and last for the hole century. Although it was finally be replaced by pannier and corset, it is used again in today’s design. Embroidery first in Byzantium around 300s to 400s. Since the economics of the country was affluent at that time, the decoration of jewelry and gold thread is widely used. And the material to make the dresses, yarn, first occurred in France around 18th century which used to make dresses more luxuriant. After listing these facts, the designs of today can be proved have no knew concepts. Therefore, what can be improved is that the concept that design always for to a cycle, those thing that were once out of date will be popular again.
One of the earlier shining periods in European costume history was the Byzantine empire, the era of luxury in European dress history. The Byzantine empire was a continuation of the eastern Roman empire, which connected the marmara sea and the Aegean sea and the black sea, and separated Europe and Asia (Byzantine empire , Livius ). Influenced by geography, the Byzantine empire was closely linked with the idiots in the east but at the same time, held many elements of western religion. Under the affect of characteristics of Middle East clothing, deep reds, blues, greens, and yellows became common on the garments of wealthy people, and the richest color, purple, was reserved for royalty (Clothing of the Byzantine Empire, 2000). In 552 AD, two Persian monks brought silkworms from China to European countries, making the Byzantine empire’s fabrics begin to resemble silk. Later, the Byzantine tailors mixed the silk with golden thread and used it for embroidery on the clothes (Clothing of the Byzantine Empire, 2000). This is the beginning of the luxury fashion trend of the Byzantine empire. At eighth century, a long scarf replaced the old Roman robe, and rich men and nobles began to decorate the scarves (Byzantine Clothing, September 9 2017). Those decorations which are often used to decorate clothes are pearls, diamonds, colored glass and other precious stones (Byzantine Clothing, September 9 2017). For the first time, people try to decorate their clothes with luxury items. These decorations are symbols of their wealth and power, and the manifestation of their pride. Combining luxury decoration and luxury fabrics bring up the resplendent Byzantine style. Byzantine style reflects not only the fashion trend of the time, but also the idea of people and the mapping of social environment. This luxury, though it has disappeared for some time with the fall of the Byzantine empire, has been re-adopted by designers in modern times. Dolce ; Gabbana’s 2013 spring – summer show gives the best example of this. For this year, the main color tone in 2013 series was gold ,weather for clothes or show, and it was as if they were consciously pulling the audience back to the gilded Byzantine period. In the decoration of the dresses, although not all of the jewelry that was used in the Byzantine empire, the design of an ornament in a dress was originally inspired by the Byzantine empire. The main colors of the those decorations are also golden, with a little red and blue embellishment, which can be said to be very Byzantine. In addition, the designer also used the Byzantine crown style in accessories. The whole presents a strong sense of metal, which reflects the extreme luxury of the Byzantine period. The design of other brands also has a lot of Byzantine mapping. Besides Dolce & Gabbana Ellie Saab is also a clothing brand that is influenced by Byzantine clothing elements. Most people impression of it stays in the design of the elegant and pure and fresh and free from vulgarity, which is completely different with the Byzantine style in general. However, it the attention is focused on the combined elements of ES’ dresses, a huge similarity will be found. One of the big characteristic of Ellie Saab dresses is that there will be a lot of sequins, will flash of artificial crystal and other ornaments inlaid on the dress, in order to build a noble but do not break sweet feeling. And the art of this skill came from the Byzantine empire. In addition, in the fall and winter, designers will choose the fabric of cashmere, and then embroider the design with gold thread or silver thread, which makes the outfit solemner. And as we mentioned earlier in this paragraph, this method of making gold wire was also originated from the Byzantine empire.