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List of references 5
The following report will be covering the deconstruction during 1980-1990. This report will be covering Yohji Yamamoto, his influence and contribution to fashion. Deconstruction is defined by Merriam Webster as a philosophical or critical method which asserts that meanings, metaphysical constructs and hierarchal oppositions as between key terms in a philosophical or literary way. (Merriam-Webster, 1993). Deconstruction was initiated by Jacques Derrida in the late 20th century. It is a theory of literary criticism that fusions traditional assumptions by means of referring to other words attempting to demonstrate how any text can change their own meanings .
Deconstruction was encouraged students as it was a way for students to look into rhetorical and performative aspects of language through questioning as well as reacting between texts. Disciplines promote the exploitation of the fundamental oppositions and critical terms of examination of ultimate goals. A general agreement within research found was that deconstruction and post modernism thinking was alike as they inspired a suspicion of established intellectual categories. The movement was also accused of being ahistorical and a political (Encyclopaedia, Britannica, 2018)
Deconstruction is started out as a way of reading then became a way to becoming an application to interpretation of literacy, religious and legal texts it was adopted by French feminist theorists as a way of making the male intellectual tradition appear to be clearer. Deconstruct is to look for structural fault lines created by vagueness of contradictions by a means of taking a text apart. A typical example given is Derrida taking apart the written word presented by Socrates stating that it should be disparaged as it comes from memory and his writing (Holland, 2008)
Derrida started articulating his deconstruction theories around 1950, Society is said to be socially constructed by establishing the individual blocks and overall settlements of our self-understanding and understanding of our society, Derrida started teaching and writing in France while believing that the idea of deconstruction is all-inclusive claims have been made that Derrida attempt’s through his writing to are undermine the ethical, intellectual norms and accused of creating a blend of extreme scepticism and solipsism. Derrida believed deconstruction was enlivening, productive and well-disposed not undermining norms but that also through context development was revealed (Sanchis, 2012). Despite the definition of deconstruction, it is an activity or performance, reading, breaking up and closely investigating the body of a text. Derrida stated “Deconstruction is something that happens wand happens from the inside. ” to an audience in 1994 in Villanova. He considered it to be philosophical with the goal set to upset the system of hidden hierarchies (Willette, 2014).
Examples of deconstruction in fashion are Comme de Garcons 2006 the design combines two opposing aesthetics giving both a presence while still being in play with one another. Deconstruction in fashion is shown through experimentation with other materials structure as well as form. Deconstruction was first seen as a rebellion against fashion and acceptance that the movement was in the domain of fashion and deconstruction seen as a trend as well as against global designer brands (Zhou, 2010). Well known designers during this time were Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Kavan from New York. Armani, Fendi, Valentino and Versace from Italy. Rei Kawakubo under the label Comme Des Garcon, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake from Japan. Christian Dior, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Ungaro and Givenchy from Paris.
Yohji Yamamoto and His relation to Fashion
The designer I chose is Yohji Yamamoto; he broke boundaries between commodity and art successfully from working with denims to couture inspired gowns. He was born in Tokyo. His mother was a dressmaker and father died in the war. He graduated with a law degree but never practiced. He then studied fashion as soon as he received his law degree at a fashion institute in Tokyo. He has had his own designs under the label Y’s continued to work alongside Rei Kawakubo where they established their ideas of deconstruction. His work has changed over the years but key elements of black and aesthetics of deconstruction remained in his designs. He often dressed women in designs inspired by menswear. This practise of gender neutral designs has also been a part of Japanese culture and a long standing tradition. (Mears, 2008)
He uses black as there is no colour more important to him within the fashion colour palette. The aesthetic attributes of traditional Japan and contemporary cultures can be seen as the colour’s associations with poverty. It seems as if he was fuelled by the generation that planned social changes of the 1960s carrying with a new vision for fashion. He started his brand in 1972. He had a vision for fashion that rails against the bourgeois conformity resulting from what he refers to as colonialism.
He said that in the dazed interview “my work gets finalised when someone wears it in the city.” Referring to his home town of Tokyo, he also mentioned that he feels accomplished and rewarded when the sales within his stores are doing good. He sees the city, Tokyo, as the canvas for his collections mostly and majority for urban wear. He also states that he would not mind for the entire city to wear suits but feels that the businessmen or workers who wear them would feel separate from fashion and see no need for it. His single thought was said to be that he wanted women to wear that what was seen as men’s clothing. His mother has been one of the greatest influences within his brand as he was raised by her and started working under her and eventually ventured on his own (Madsen, 2014).
I chose him as a designer because of the overall attitude he has towards fashion especially dressing women in men’s clothes for the display of his clothing and making fashion neutral on that platform. I like the use of colour within his collections sticking to darker tones and mainly black throughout and I especially like his later collections more as I feel like he has matured and grown through his work and it could only get better from here. His method of layering material as well as his use of asymmetrical lines in his design is also a different and fresh approach to design and it questions the silhouette of how clothing should be.
The colours not only used within this time period were relatively dark, various tones of browns, blacks and neutral tones. His work is seen as a part of this time period of the 1980s – 1990 because it fits with the designs while still being within the boundaries of his style. There were also various textures and materials used such as leather and fur which were especially popular during this time even though it is not used that much today.
Redesigning his work into mine was ensuring there would be layering and the final design would be black because this is a constant theme throughout his work. I stuck to dark tones as this is common throughout his collections. I stuck to keeping the design long while having asymmetrical layering of material within the design. I kept the concept board simple and also including his sketches as this is also commonly shown throughout his designs.
It is clear through the definition of deconstruction that Yohji Yamamoto’s work in terms of fashion design during the 1980s – 1990s show examples of deconstruction as deconstruction is looking at closely and breaking down examples shown and given to question them as he has done this htrough asymmetrical lines and layering of material with unfinished hems, seams and approaching the way womens clothing is seen opens up the door to new.
List of References
Merriam-Webster’s collegiate dictionary. 10th ed. 1993. Springfield, MA.: Merriam-Webster
Encyclopaedia Britannica. 2018. Deconstruction. Encyclopaedia Britannica. Online. Available: https://www.britannica.com/topic/deconstruction. 27 September 2018.
Mastin L. 2009. Deconstruction. Philosophy Basics. Online. Available: https://www.philosophybasics.com/movements_deconstructionism.html. 27 September 2018.
Sanchis, D. 2012. Art and Deconstruction, Construction, Deconstruction and the Practices of Contemporaty Art. Artscape Magazine. Online. Available: http://www.artscapemagazine.com/inside_00.html. 27 September 2018.
Holland, J. 2008. Deconstruction. Internet Encyclopaedia of Philosophy. Online. Available: https://www.iep.utm.edu/deconst/#SH4b. 27 September 2018.
Willette, J. 2014. Jacques Derrida and Deconstrucion. Art History Unstuffed. Online. Available: https://arthistoryunstuffed.com/jacques-derrida-deconstruction/. 27 September 2018.
Zhou, P. 2010. Deconstruction ; Fashion. Fashion As Medium. . Blog Available: http://fashionmedium.blogspot.com/2010/02/deconstruction-fashion.html. 27 September 2018.
Mears, P. 2008. Yohji Yamamoto. Fashion History. Online. Available: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-clothing-industry/fashion-designers/yohji-yamamoto.27 September 2018.
Madsen, S. 2014. Inside the Head of Yohji Yamamoto. Dazed Digital. Online. Available: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/19283/1/inside-the-head-of-yohji-yamamoto. 27 September 2018.